The Roman temple complex of Baalbek |
Inside the temple of Bacchus, Baalbek
The night before |
After a long drive from Les
Cedres to Baalbek over Beirut, we were happy to arrive in Baalbek. It had
rained or snowed for most of the journey and driving in the dark on the
most slippery roads we have ever seen was not particularly enjoyable. The
road surface is so poor that Troopie would spin its wheels in 2nd and 3rd
despite the fact it was far from freezing temperature ! We dropped Martin
at the 120 year old Palmyra hotel overlooking the ruins where Christian,
as the driver of the distinguished guest, was invited to sleep behind the
reception on a sofa ! During WW I, the hotel was the German HQ, during WW
II it was the British army HQ in the area. We were shown the room in which
General de Gaulle stayed and the walls are peppered with drawings by
Cocteau, a French writer. We drove to the entrance of the temple complex
and slept like babies in our tent under the rain whilst Martin was
enjoying the luxury of a paraffin heater and cold water !
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The temple complex |
As we woke up the next
morning it was sunny but windy, cold and even snowing ! Despite the
weather, Baalbek must be one of the most impressive sights we have ever
seen. The Heliopolis or Sun city of the ancient world was made on a scale
that outshone everything including Rome. The small temple of Bacchus is
both bigger and better preserved than the Parthenon in Athens. The
"immensity has to be seen to be believed" (LP). "It was
thought in the old days that Baalbek had been constructed by giants and a
quick look over the side of the (Jupiter) temple to the foundation stones
reveals some of the largest building blocks to be found anywhere on earth.
On of these megalithic blocks measures 19.5 x 4.3 meters and estimated to weigh
over 1000 tons - how it was moved and positioned so precisely remains a
mystery." (Lonely Planet Lebanon). The complex has two main
temples : the temple of Jupiter and the temple of Bacchus.
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The temple of Jupiter |
The largest of the two
temples is the temple of Jupiter Baal. Jupiter was the God of the gods for
the Romans as was Zeus for the Greek or Baal for the local people. Many
parts of the temple that is built on a 300m long structure have now
disappeared. Only 6 columns remained to give us an idea of its original
size. The columns are the largest in the world : 22 m high with a girth of
2.2 meters. Every time the sun shone, Christian would rush back to them to
have another look and each time he was amazed.
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Baalbek's temple of Jupiter
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The temple of Bacchus (the small temple) |
Meant to be the most
beautifully decorated temple in the Roman world, the "small
temple" as it was called in antiquity is larger than the Parthenon
!
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Kathleen dressed in red at the side of a column gives an idea of the size of the "small temple" (left), the extensive decoration has remained more or less intact
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A reconstruction showing what Baalbek's temple of Bacchus looked like in Roman times
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As in Persepolis, the need to leave a mark... (left) and the temple of the Muses (centre & right)
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Martin : gymnastics at an advanced age !
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We are all doing well !
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